Ricky Moorhouse

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Finca Madre Tierra, Monteverde

Finca Madre Tierra was the first carbon-neutral farm in Costa Rica and we were really excited to visit and learn more about it. We met at reception at 2pm to travel with Oscar, one of the people who run the farm, to travel to the farm, which was about 25 minutes away from the hotel. When we arrived, we were greeted by the farm dogs and the sounds of the animals who after washing our hands we went inside the barn to meet.
First we got to feed the donkeys and then Laura and Abi had a go at milking the cow. Some of the milk was then put into bottles for the young animals and Abi and Jessica fed it to the calves and lambs. The milk from the cows is also used in making cheese for the hotel.

After the animals had been fed, it was time to head outside and learn how to ride the horses. I was first onto my horse and successfully managed to guide it around and over to the water trough, but it wasn't interested in drinking any. We rode for about 45 minutes up and down the stony paths, through the forest and across streams. At one point Oscar stopped and signalled we should all stop behind him as he'd seen a snake - a pit viper in the tree at the side of the path.

We then went back to the barn and had a go at making our own tortillas, which we ate with home-made cheese and eggs from the farm along with aguadulce and farm grown coffee to drink.

After eating we were taken on a walking tour of the farm where we got to see how the farms puts sustainability into action throughout all the different things they produce. We started by visiting the cheese factory where they make the cheese for the hotel from the cows milk. They make the cheese in the mornings, so we got to taste some of the different types of cheeses and see the smoker in action - they burn discarded rice husks to get the smoke, which then are re-used again in the compost mixture they make.

After the cheese we saw the forest to the side of the farm where they've been re-foresting an area and told how they've been working with scientists to study how to get the most effective balance to build a sustainable farming practise. We then went on to visit the coffee plantation, where they grow a particular species of coffee that is best suited to organic growth and less susceptible to coffee

Crushing sugar cane to drink

on to Hanging bridges

Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

Early start for a quick breakfast (I had a delicious home-made granola with chia and coconut milk) and then meet our driver at 7am to take us to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. We had a private guide for the walk around the reserve with whom we saw lots of things and heard lots of birds - nightingale, 'squeaky-door bird (Solitaire), toucanettes and quetzal.

Golden-browed Chlorofonia
Golden-browed Chlorofonia
White-nosed Coati
White-nosed Coati
Uncoiling tree ferns
Uncoiling tree ferns

Abi spotted a female Quetzal. The guide was great at showing us everything around on the ground and in the trees and how climate change has affected the area. They used to have only 30 dry days a year and now have 90! 50% of frogs have disappeared with a knock on effect on everything else. I particularly liked the tree ferns, and the tanagers. We also saw a tarantula in its hole.

Quetzal (female)
Quetzal (female)
Slate-throated Redstart
Slate-throated Redstart

After the walk around the reserve, we went over to the hummingbird viewing area where they had sugar-water in feeders for the hummingbirds to drink

Lesser Violetear
Lesser Violetear
Uncoiling ferns
Uncoiling ferns

On the way back we opted to be dropped off in the town of Santa Elena to have a look around and make our own way back to the hotel - it was nice to see, but the walk back was much further than the '15 minutes' we'd been told! We had a juice for lunch and then relaxed for a bit before our trip to the farm we'd booked for the afternoon.

on to Finca Madre Tierra

Zip-lining, Arenal

We started with an early breakfast at 7 with seats right by the front of the restaurant overlooking the volcano watching birds over the water and then headed over to the reception to be picked up at 8:15 for Sky trek.

When we arrived, we put our bags in the lockers and got kitted out with equipment and they gave me a special helmet with a mount for my go-pro so that I could film from there rather than from my chest strap. We were then given the briefing on how to use the equipment and importantly how to brake and were taken up to the stop of the first zip line in the tram.

There were 7 zip lines in all including the longest which was nearly half a mile in length. There were fantastic views from the zip lines overlooking Arenal lake and volcano and it was such a great way to see the area from a different perspective.

After we finished the course we had chips at the restaurant overlooking the volcano and headed back to the hotel for a chilled out afternoon by the pool and finished off the evening in the hotels termales.

on to Monteverde - Hotel Belmar

Arenal Volcano Hike

This morning we had a relaxing morning in the pool enjoying the swim-up bar and the views across to the volcano whose peak kept peeping out from behind the clouds. We got wood-fired pizzas for lunch by the pool overlooking the volcano and watching wildlife by the lake.

We were picked up after lunch by Canoa Aventura for our volcano hike, which took us along the course of the 1968 lava flows to a view point where we had great views of the volcano and across to the Arenal Lake. The lake is man-made and covers the area to the west of the volcano which was destroyed by soot and gases from the eruption and is used to generate hydro-electric power.

Along the hike we saw lots of epiphytes, in particular bromeliads and orchids such as the One-day orchid (Sobralia sp.), the Spanish flag orchid (Epidendrum radicans) and the endemic Arenal Bromeliad (Pitcaimia Funkiae).

Arenal Bromeliad (Pitcaimia Funkiae)
Arenal Bromeliad (Pitcaimia Funkiae)
Spanish flag orchid (Epidendrum radicans)
Spanish flag orchid (Epidendrum radicans)
One-day orchid (Sobralia sp.)
One-day orchid (Sobralia sp.)

We finished the hike in time to watch the sunset over the lake bathing the volcano in a reddish glow before heading to Eco Termales to bathe in volcanic heated springs under the stars.

Sunset over Arenal lake
Sunset over Arenal lake
White-throated Magpie-jay, Arenal
White-throated Magpie-jay, Arenal
Peak of the volcano
Peak of the volcano

on to Zip-lining

Tirimbina - a bonus

Originally our plan had been to fly from Tortuguero to La Fortuna but, due to maintenance issues with the plane, the flight was cancelled and there were no others available. Instead, we travelled by land - initially leaving Laguna Lodge on the boat and travelling by coach to Guapilles and then being picked up by Juan Carlos to take us the rest of the way. This meant that we were able to stop off at Tirimbina on the way where we had a guide, Luis, to take us around the reserve.

Rio Sarapiqui
Rio Sarapiqui
Hanging bridge
Hanging bridge
Iguana in a tree
Iguana in a tree

The tour took us across a hanging bridge into the primary forest and around a circular path through the forest, along which we saw interesting plants and animals.

Palm 'horn' containing new growth
Palm 'horn' containing new growth
Walking palm
Walking palm

Some of the highlights were the views into the trees from the hanging bridge, the walking palm with nibbed roots and the closer view of a sloth.

Woodpecker
Woodpecker
Poison-dart Frog
Poison-dart Frog
Sloth
Sloth

on to Arenal - Volcano Hike